The Oblivion does not come as a kit. There is no manual. You can not purchase any Oblivion parts anywhere. This page shows you how to succeed anyway.

Thrust Bearings for Tail Rotor: Same weight as the stock Align tail, but SLS based and with thrust bearings. Leave out H45034QH.
– 1x H45T003XXT, modify and reduce in a lathe as mentioned here
– 1x H45R001XX
– 2x SLS Tail blade grips
– 4x Bearing 3x6x2mm

Counter Bearing
– 1x SLS Counter bearing support for 3mm or r144 for 3.17mm motor shaft
– 1x Bearing 3x8x3mm for 3mm or r144 for 3.17mm motor shaft

Support Oblivion Development

If you feel this is heading in the right direction and you would like to support the project, prototyping and future enhancements, this is your chance. I have no commercial interest but will appreciate donations of course.

Personal Info

Donation Total: $0

BUILD INSTRUCTIONS (work in progress)

Tools: 4mm reamer, file

  • Use the reamer to widen the holes for spindle- & main shaft
  • Critical: Use the file to reduce the flange around the spindle shaft to approx. 0.3mm. Mounted blade grips must move freely and without any resistance. If not done correctly, blade tracking will be off, resulting in heavy vibrations
  • Screw an M2.5 bolt full length into the spindle shaft. Drive the spindle shaft into the head by turning via M2.5 bolt. Use opposite side if too far in. Also use this technique to adjust and even out the bearing pre-load with mounted blade grips
  • Dremel off the top side of the LYNX main shaft, until there is 1.5mm material left between upper bore and end of shaft. Alternatively, use a grinding machine. Be precise with this measurement
  • Mount the Jesus-bolt and counter it with an M2 locknut
Tools: Drill 3.5mm, drill 1.3mm

  • Apply CA glue to the tip of an M1.6×20 bolt and quickly screw it into the plastic linkage for 6-7mm
  • Clip off the top of the bolt to leave around 8-10mm of blank area
  • Hand-drill 3.5mm into the bottom of the linkage for around 8-10mm
  • Hand-drill 1.3mm into the continued inside of the 3.5mm hole for another 10mm
  • Screw the ball linkage into the plastic until it is almost completely immersed
  • Add 2 bearings to the left and right side of the plastic
  • Use an M2x16 stainless steel bolt to mount the linkage into the blade grip. Tight at first, then loosen up until you feel no more resistance when moving the linkage up and down
Tools: 8mm reamer, 2mm hex key

  • Use the reamer to widen the blade grip to fit the bearings – repeat if necessary
  • Critical: Check bearing orientations and sequence!
Tools: File

  • Use sand paper, metal file or dremel to roughen the inside & outside of center bearing, swashplate inner- & outer piece
  • Apply a small amount of Uhu plus endfest 300 or CA to the roughend surfaces. Fit the bearing into the outer swashplate piece, followed by the inner swashplate piece. Make sure there is no residue of glue seeping into the bearing. Often it is better to wait until the glue has dried and then remove any residue
  • For setting up the swashplate in your flybarless system, set it to 140 degrees. If you are doing a “free” swashplate setup, set ch2 & ch3 distance to 100% and ch1 (elevator) to 78,53%
  • Due to the completely rigid head construction, you might notice a slight tendency of control crosscoupling between elevator and aileron. It is therefore recommended to virtually rotate the swashplate +5° to eliminate this tendency. This means forward elevator also moves the swash slightly to the right. Apply -5° of virtual swashplate rotation (counter-clockwise)